I bit off more than I can chew. Depicting fabric is new for me, and I picked a doozy to put in this

[TreasonousBastard]

3. First, you need to do some research on optical illusions...

The checkerboard illusion is a great place to start:

https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Checker_shadow_illusion&direction=next&oldid=938588333

Then, remember the fights over the color of the dress?

https://slate.com/technology/2017/04/heres-why-people-saw-the-dress-differently.html

And you can keep on going from there, with fascinating results.

In your case, transcribing a 3D image into 2D brings some possibly unwelcome results. By the time the brain gets the image, many compromises have been made and interpretation gets screwed up. Other interesting effects come from the "crater illusion":

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crater_illusion

There are better articles, but this will give you the idea.

So, assumed light direction, contrast, saturation, and a few other things affect the perception of the scene. The more you know about this, the better you can manipulate the image to get the effect you like.